Finding a decent set of cushman trackster tracks is honestly getting harder every year, but it's the only way to keep these vintage beasts alive and crawling through the mud. If you've spent any time in the world of vintage all-terrain vehicles, you know that the Cushman Trackster is a bit of a legend. It's that quirky, twin-track machine that looks like a miniature tank and can climb over stuff that would make a modern side-by-side think twice. But as any owner will tell you, the machine is only as good as the rubber it's standing on.
The reality is that most of these machines are decades old now. While the OMC engines are fairly bulletproof and the hydrostatic drives were built to last, the cushman trackster tracks are usually the first thing to give out. They take all the abuse—rocks, stumps, ice, and just plain old dry rot from sitting in a barn since the late 80s. If you're looking at a Trackster that's been sitting, the tracks are the very first thing you should inspect before you even bother trying to fire up the engine.
Why the Original Tracks Are So Unique
Back when Cushman was building these in Lincoln, Nebraska, they weren't just slapping off-the-shelf parts onto a frame. The original tracks were a specific design made of a heavy-duty rubber compound reinforced with internal cords. What made them special—and what makes them so hard to replace today—is the way they interface with the drive sprockets and the bogie wheels.
Unlike a modern snowmobile that uses a relatively thin track with simple windows for the drive lugs, the Trackster tracks are thick, heavy, and have a very specific pitch. If that pitch is off by even a fraction of an inch, the track won't stay on the machine. It'll either jump time or, worse, peel right off the side while you're halfway up a muddy hill. That's not a fun situation to be in, trust me.
The original OEM tracks also had a very distinct "V" pattern for traction. It's great for getting through deep snow or swampy muck, but it's also why these things are so loud when you drive them on hard-packed dirt or asphalt. They vibrate like crazy, but that's just part of the charm, right?
The Great Dry Rot Struggle
If you've found a "barn find" Trackster, the tracks might look okay at first glance. They might even still have all their lugs. But you've got to look closer. Rubber has a shelf life, and after 40 or 50 years, those internal cords start to break down. You'll start seeing tiny cracks—checking—along the edges or near the drive teeth.
Once those cracks start, it's a ticking time bomb. You might get a few more hours of fun out of them, but eventually, you're going to hit a rock or put a little too much torque on them, and the track will just snap. And since the Trackster uses a hydrostatic drive system, if one track goes, you aren't going anywhere. You're stuck exactly where you are until you can winch it onto a trailer or find a way to drag it out.
I've seen guys try to "save" old cushman trackster tracks by using rubber conditioners or even some types of flexible epoxy. Honestly? It's usually a waste of time. Once the structural integrity of the rubber is gone, there isn't a spray-on chemical in the world that's going to bring it back to its former glory.
Finding Replacements in the Modern World
So, what do you do when your tracks finally give up the ghost? This is where things get a bit tricky. Cushman hasn't made these tracks in a long, long time. For a while, there were a few companies that made aftermarket versions, but even those have become scarce.
Most people today end up going one of three routes:
- Hunting for New Old Stock (NOS): This is the holy grail. Occasionally, a set of brand-new, never-used original tracks will pop up on an auction site or in the back of an old dealership. If you find these, be prepared to pay a premium. Also, keep in mind that even if they've never been used, they're still old rubber.
- Used Tracks from Parts Machines: This is the most common way to keep a Trackster going. You buy a second, non-running machine just for the tracks. It's a bit of a gamble, but if the donor machine was kept indoors, the tracks might still have some life in them.
- Modern Conversions: This is where the real "tinkering" happens. Some dedicated owners have figured out how to adapt modern snowmobile tracks or even industrial conveyor belts to work on a Trackster. This usually requires modifying the drive sprockets and the bogie wheels, but it's the most sustainable way to keep these machines on the trail for the next 50 years.
How to Inspect a Potential Set of Tracks
If you're out looking at a used set of cushman trackster tracks, don't just look at the outside. The most important part is actually the inside—the side that touches the wheels. Look at the drive teeth. These are the little rubber "nubs" that the sprocket grabs onto to move the machine. If they're rounded off or missing, the track is going to slip.
Check the edges for fraying. If you see white or yellowish strings sticking out of the rubber, those are the reinforcement cords. Once those are exposed to the elements, they soak up water, freeze, and rot out from the inside. A track with exposed cords is pretty much at the end of its life.
Also, give them a good squeeze. Good rubber should still have a little bit of "give" to it. If it feels like hard plastic or if it starts to crumble under your fingernail, it's toast. It's better to walk away and wait for a better set than to spend a weekend mounting junk tracks only to have them fall apart on your first ride.
Maintaining What You've Got
If you're lucky enough to have a set of tracks that are still in decent shape, you want to do everything you can to keep them that way. The biggest enemy of rubber is UV light. If you leave your Trackster sitting out in the sun all summer, those tracks are going to bake and crack. Always keep it under a tarp or, better yet, inside a garage or shed.
Another big thing is track tension. If the tracks are too loose, they'll flop around and hit the frame, which causes unnecessary wear. If they're too tight, you're putting a massive amount of stress on the wheel bearings and the hydrostatic motors. There's a "sweet spot" where the tracks have just a little bit of sag but don't feel like they're about to jump off.
Cleaning is also a big deal. After a day in the mud, it's tempting to just park the machine and go grab a beer. But if that mud dries inside the tracks, it turns into something like sandpaper. It'll grind away at your bogie wheels and the inside of the track every time you move. A quick spray-down with a hose goes a long way.
The Future of the Trackster
It's kind of amazing that these things are still around. They're a testament to how over-engineered stuff used to be. But as the supply of original parts dwindles, the community of owners has had to become more resourceful. There are forums and Facebook groups dedicated solely to these machines, and that's usually where you'll find the best advice on where to source cushman trackster tracks or how to fabricate your own parts.
Some guys are even looking into 3D printing or custom molding new drive lugs to bolt onto modern rubber belting. It's a lot of work, but for people who love these machines, it's worth it. There's just nothing else that drives quite like a Trackster. The way it turns on a dime and handles steep grades is still impressive, even by today's standards.
At the end of the day, owning a Cushman is a labor of love. You aren't buying one because it's practical or because you can get parts at the local NAPA. You're buying it because it's a piece of history that still happens to be incredibly fun to drive. Just make sure you keep an eye on those tracks, because without them, you've just got a very heavy, very orange lawn ornament. Keep them clean, keep them out of the sun, and they'll keep you moving through the woods for a good while longer.